mounting tires comments



mounting tires comments

not sure its useful to drag out a Michelin Pilot Activ discussion, I see them for sale but got impression on Michelin website that Activs might be phasing out ?
anyway I bought this set too long ago , and want to get some miles out of them before they turn to black chalk

Question - there is no apparent heavy spot mark / paint dot on these tires, no info on website. Does anyone have info ?

I tried find a heavy spot by 3point weighing ;
I rested the tire on two fixed points , points ~1/3 circumference apart would be good but just maintaining symmetry w/r/t a 3rd rest point ( a digital scale) is good.
I laid sockets on side, kept at consistent locations (slots of a table saw), with bar clamps just outboard / behind it all, in order to block the tire into same position every time, and used an cheapie electronic scale under a 3rd spot @ opposite side to weigh that side/spot resting on the scale.

Important to have the tire jigged into as consistent of a placement orientation w/r/t everything as possible , to have any hope of useful measurements.

Chalk or crayon fiducials marks on tire would have helped a lot too , to do a better job identifying a heavy spot & keeping track of numbers.
Kept turning & weighing until it sure seemed like I found The Spot , a " heaviest" orientation, but was only a few grams difference.
That heavy spot then gets oriented 180 from the valve on assembled wheel.
(note - this failed bigly, as that guess required 2 oz of MORE weight on my " heavy" presumed side. more notes below

I ended up putting Mr Michelin Man (on the right side) waving from directly above the valve stem hole.
I mention this just in case there is consistency between tires, and you aren't as anal as me; it beats a blind guess.
IMO , I have best luck with uniformity on Michelins of all sorts ( car / bike ), my top pick unless priced out of the running.

For another what its worth, I have that wheel's bearing with a +0.001" spacing ( spacer tube / wedding ring to hold bearings a net ~ 0.001" OFF the races at room temp) and the break free force or "preload" is astoundingly low; when I would move the valve hole just a very few degrees off of TDC,
the wheel would break free from a rest and hunt a bit until the the valve hole was again topmost, repeated location w/in a fraction of an inch.
Thats a really small preload , and its a 100% certain the bearing are not in a condition of actual crush ...

I will probably aim for a 0.000" spacer set up when I finally run this thing, as there is the tiniest bit of rock evident at rim edge with the +0.001" set up.
My whole point of MEASURING (measure one bearing height w/r/t race while the wheel is resting horizontal on the other bearing, with the full spacer stack inserted ) to determine the correct wedding ring was to avoid a "guess & drag test" process.
IMO really is a superior way and not difficult; calipers & some wits jiggin it up is all thats needed to determine that initial setting.
This tiny prelaod will also be useful for a doing static / final balance of wheel - the break-free force was a gnats nut +/- a load

(PS you could weigh "preload" aka break free force , using a dixie cup hanging from a string wrapped around the axle,
& adding water to the cup until the wheel breaks free ;
weigh the water & do the math , if you -like me- dont have a sensitive enough spring-scale to pull test.
THis would be much more accurate , ect , than tugging a string

I recall reading somewhere that the Pilot Activ , the front / 19 at least, was having trouble w/ seating the last segment of bead fully , on snowflake rims.
Ditto here, was a struggle session , the very last section to seat just wouldn't fully home,
like the bead just wont give any more and is too small diameter by some tiny amount.
Just a tiny gap but visible. Not sticking MY finger tip in there to tempt Murphy into seating it on a pinch of skin!

My rims are pretty clean but I got in a hurry & neglected to better smooth out the shoulder of the bead area with some scotchbrite & metal cleaner / polish.
Next time I sure wont, because I had to do the the overfill / deflate game a dozen times to get it still not-perfectly seated.
Probably could have put some tire shine / treament on the rubber for a day or few beforehand too, to soften the lip, maybe try polish the tire lip too !

Finally left it sitting with 50 psi , after working a bit more lube under the spot while deflated, and when I checked a few hours later, the mis-seated section was much less apparent, as if the tire eased home while stretched from the over pressure.

Not checked yet whether tire is round at the road patch due to any seating issues but expect to , before done.
Probably do a handful more fill/deflate attempts after the tire relaxes over night with over-pressure.

I lucked into a freebie harbor freight tire machine, and dropped $$ for a mojo lever after the first time I tried the HF monstrosity,
Mojo lever is a very useful & welcome tool so far.

I also have a bead knuckle -kind of thing that stops the initial bead seat from sneaking off while working the lever around, a worthy aid with the rickety HF stand.

The last idea to offer for tire mouting is Toyota Tire Lube, an aerosol product.
Much better lube than soap water and stays slick for a lot longer too; doesn't dry away too fast & leave a counter-productive sticky film like soap does.
Definitely worth the few bucks and so far got a couple years & half dozen tires out of the can with lots more to go